IN THE KITCHEN: Liver Pentagon

Liver. For many the word itself conjures up more horrific images than moribund diction like tombstone or cemetery. Liver has unfairly fallen out of favor in America due to the selective prepackaging of muscly grocery store meats and chain restaurants’ ubiquitous abstention from serving organs. However, there was a time when liver - along with sweetbreads, kidneys, tongue, and hearts - was revered with gastronomical gusto.

Organ meats likes those mentioned above, have far more uses than mere filler for hot dogs, chorizo, and scrapple. In fact, in most parts of the world, organs are still widely consumed as healthy alternatives to fatty rib eyes and stacks of baby back ribs.

Foie gras, the fattened liver of a duck or goose, is a delicacy in most of Western civilization and can fetch astronomical prices. However, that the liver of avian species is more prized than that of mammals like sheep and cows should be no indication that the liver of a lamb or calf is to be forgotten altogether. While not as delicate in flavor as foie gras or pate, lamb and calf livers are significantly lower in fat than foie gras, higher in protein, and richer in iron and vitamin A.

Much of the stigma attached to liver can be attributed to the paucity of colorful accouterments to offset the grayish liver. Liver and onions is still frequently served in diners in the South, however liver lends itself well to a variety of flavors, offering palatable leniency to tastes both sweet and savory. For this matter, serving liver with nothing more than a few grilled onions fails to take advantage of the organ’s versatility. Below is a recipe that showcases the dexterity of this oft forgotten meat.

The liver in this dish is accompanied by four sauces and one side, each item offering a different accent to the natural flavor of the liver. The term pentagon refers to the orientation of the liver companions around the edge of the plate, not to the enigmatic offices of the U.S. Department of Defense, an agency that just might be scarier than all the liver in the world combined.

Preparation for Liver:
1 lb. calf’s liver (or organic, grass-fed beef liver)
1/4 lb. smoked bacon

Remove any tough connective tissue or gristle from liver. Soak liver in cold water or milk for 1 hour to remove excess blood.

While the liver is being bled, dice 1/4 pound smoked bacon and cook bacon over very low heat for 20 minutes or until the majority of the fat has been released from the bacon. Remove bacon from grease and set bacon and pan aside.

Pentagon Point 1: Sweet Cherry Chard
1/3 lb. sweet cherries, pits removed (15- 20 cherries)
3 cups shredded swiss chard leaves (stems removed)
1 Tbs. butter
1 Tbs. lemon juice
salt

In skillet melt butter and sauté swiss chard over medium heat until leaves start to wilt. Add cherries and lemon juice. Sauté for 5 minutes. Remove from heat before cherries fully break down. chill in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Serve cold.

Pentagon Point 2: Shallot Endive Salad
2 small heads of endive, sliced into thin rings
3 medium shallots, sliced into thin rings
1 small garlic clove, pressed
1 Tbs. butter
1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1/2 tsp. caraway seeds
remaining bacon from liver preparation
salt

Over medium heat, melt butter in saucepan. Add sliced shallots, garlic, bacon, caraway seeds and a pinch of salt. Sauté for 5 to 7 minutes or until shallots become mostly limp. Add endive and balsamic vinegar. Reduce heat to low. Cook until endive is moderately limp. Serve warm.

Pentagon Point 3: Midnight Mashed Potatoes
3 medium blue or purple potatoes, cut into quarters, unpeeled
2 ounces soft, unaged chevre (goat cheese)
1/4 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. olive oil
1/8 tsp. thyme
salt
pepper

Bring water to boil in medium-sized pot and allow potatoes to boil for 20 minutes. Strain water from potatoes. Add remaining ingredients and mash together crudely. Serve warm.

Pentagon Point 4: Tomato Cranberry Relish
1 cup canned whole cranberry sauce
2 small tomatoes, diced
3 Tbs. dry red wine
1/4 tsp. crushed rosemary
1/2 tsp. corn starch
salt
pepper

In small saucepan, break down diced tomatoes and a pinch of salt in olive oil. Add cranberry sauce, red wine, rosemary, corn starch, pepper. Simmer uncovered for twenty minutes. Cover, remove from heat and allow relish to thicken. Serve warm.

Pentagon Point 5: Caramelized Onions
2 medium yellow or white onions
1 1/2 Tbs. butter
1 1/2 Tbs. brown sugar
salt

Peel onions and cut into thin rings. Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat. Add onions, brown sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt. Cover and reduce heat after 5 minutes. Allow onions to soften and caramelize (approximately 20 minutes) keeping heat low enough to prevent sugar from burning. Remove from heat once onions have darkened significantly and become fully limp. Serve warm.

Liver Preparation

Over medium heat warm bacon grease. Depending on amount of fat rendered from the bacon, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of butter.

Remove liver from milk/water bath. Pat dry with a paper towel. Dredge the liver in flour, bread crumbs or crushed soda crackers. When oil has come to temperature, place liver in frying pan. Cook 3-5 minutes until top side has released a substantial amount of blood and bottom has browned. Flip liver. To maintain the liver’s soft texture, recommended temperature is medium as overcooked liver will become tough.

Putting It All Together

Place a fair amount of each Pentagon Point (according to their numerical order) around the perimeter of the individual serving plates, forming a pentagon around the edge of the plate.

Immediately before serving, slice cooked liver into 1/2 inch strips. Place several strips in the middle of each plate. Garnish with alfalfa sprouts. Encourage guests to try each sauce separately and to combine the flavors.

Serve with a medium- to full-bodied red wine.

Serves 4.

Eric Howerton can be reached at erichowerton@mac.com.


The above originally appeared in Crosswinds Weekly, Jan. 4-Jan 11.