FOOD FINDS: Burger Heaven: From Albuquerque to Española

Española, NM may not have the most sterling reputation in the American Southwest, but the delinquent town can offer something no other place in New Mexico can: the best tacos north of the border. El Parasol (602 Camino Santa Cruz NE, Espan&tilede;ola) a humble a trailer converted into a first-class taqueria, has won numerous awards for their beef and chicken tacos, and their acclaim is renowned. But a little known fact, even to Espanola vatos, is that El Parasol also has the best green chile cheeseburgers this side of heaven.

Other burgers cower and shake when compared to the beefy, double-fisting demands of El Parasol’s hamburguesas. For something as simple as a burger to taste so good must be a matter of metaphysics. It would not surprise me to discover El Parasol uses only sacred beef to create a burger that smacks so distinctly of the sublime.

That being said, the new Owl Cafe (4320 The 25 Way at I-25 and Jefferson) has come as close to replicating El Parasol’s incarnation of salted meat and piquant green chile on a sweet bun as humanly possible.

Owl Cafe has been operating in one town or another since 1945. El Parasol opened in 1992, 47 years after the original Owl Cafe opened its beak in San Antonio, NM. However, seniority should not be mistaken for superiority.

For those residents of Isotopia (formerly known as Duke City) who don’t want to drive north an hour plus to sink their canines into something as pedestrian as a burger, Owl Cafe offers a worth substitute. But, as with any substitute for perfection, certain concessions must be made.

Unlike Albuquerque’s first Owl Cafe (800 Eubank NE), Owl Cafe at 25 Way does not feature a full menu of home-cooked meals and fixings. Instead, roving palates are restricted by a selection of seven sandwiches - six of which are burgers - four types of fries, and a salad. Throw in a few malted milkshakes and some finger food for the kiddos and there you have it. Pickings are slimmer than transportation out of a one horse town.

Shortly after ordering and selecting our booth, a basket of “soon to be famous fries” ($1.95) arrived at our table. The fries, made from fresh-cut russets, were unctuous, buttery javelins of unskinned potatoes. Crispy and starchy, we quickly devoured the first basket in a matter of seconds.

Thankfully, a second basket arrived. Then a lone burger, a classic green chili cheeseburger ($4.25), landed safely, accompanied by an order of jack and cheddar fries ($2.85). A few minutes later, a California burger ($5.25) entered the union. The California burger - nearly complete with bacon, avocado, and cheese - demanded a side of green chile.

The piecemeal dining experience, normally reserved for dim sum and tapas restaurants, continued until all of our food was finally within reach. Though the milkshakes ($3.99) arrived only after our burgers were half-eaten and the fries had vanished, they were avalanches of iced cream, easily filling the soda glass twice over. Samplings of cherry, chocolate, and chocolate-banana were enjoyed with nostalgic glee.

Despite the nuisance of our order being delivered in installments, the only legitimate complaint of Owl Cafe’s newest burger hub was the shrunken stature of the sandwiches themselves. Feeling as though I had been tricked into a meal of fries with a side of hamburger, I was understandably disgruntled when my burger vanished after eight bites. Expecting to grow rotund from excessive amounts of meat and green chile, I lamented not ordering two burgers or a double-patty ($1 extra).

Dinner for three was a bit pricey, totaling just over $36 for a burger, a basket of fries (best left unadulterated), and a shake apiece. To cut down on costs, sharing a shake is recommended.

Owl Cafe’s proximity to Century Rio 24 makes it a noble competitor for the after theater crowd. However to compete with Red Robin and Fudruckers, both within walking distance of the cinema, Owl Cafe will either have to expand its menu or expand the size of their burgers. Owl Cafe may have the best burgers south of Espano&tilede;la, but a five-dollar burger should taste like a million bucks and leave you feeling like you’ve eaten a million pounds.

Think you can eat hotter chile than Eric Howerton? Send a scathing email to erichowerton@mac.com.

A slightly altered form of the above originally appeared in Crosswinds Weekly (www.crosswindsweekly.com), Dec.7-14 issue.