FOOD FINDS: Nob Hill's Crazy Fish in a word: Fresh

Residents of landlocked New Mexico have historically been deprived of noteworthy seafood options. In the past, when craving a filet from the briny deep, New Mexicans with a hankering for halibut were left to chose from a) commercial joints guaranteed to hide freezer-burned fish behind a curtain of butter; or, b) mediocre sushi bars where freshness is more suspect than a police lineup.

Crazy Fish (3015 Central Ave NE, 505-232-3474), Albuquerque’s most recent addition to the pantheon of exciting Nob Hill eateries, is a refreshing departure from the middling efforts of run-of-the-mill seafood haunts, and offers fish so fresh it almost voluntarily swims down your gullet.

The decor is simple and refined. Red tables with black trim speak to a sleek modernity while framed blowups of manga comics hang overhead. The contrast of the austere and the lighthearted delivers the message that Crazy Fish wants you to take sushi seriously, but not so seriously that a boisterously appreciation for the cuisine is stifled.

After the requisite bowl of miso, loaded with fresh scallions and seaweed, we whetted our whistles with grilled calamari served over mixed greens ($6.50). The calamari, grilled to perfection, was a pleasing combination of both crispy and spongy. The chef took obvious pains to not produce a calamari that harkened memories of rubber bands or chewing gum. Despite the unfaltering preparation and spicy sauce, the mollusk would have been improved by grilling it over a charcoal or wood fire grill rather than gas.

Our party was tempted to order the spinach gyoza ($5.00) but opted instead, upon the recommendation of the manager, to take a risk: the sesame jellyfish ($4.50). Our wager did not go unrewarded.

The jellyfish, flash-blanched in water, sliced into thin ribbons, served in a stemless martini globe and garnished with cod roe, was a well-received surprise. The appearance was reminiscent of a clear rice noodles, and the dish had a refreshing snap. Even the trepidacious member of our party found the appetizer delightful despite her phobic apprehensions.

As we scrutinized the music selections rotating in the disc changer - Bob Marley, Sarah McLachlan and jazz - our meal arrived. The nigiri (fish filet served over a small oval of rice) and maki (sushi rolled with rice and seaweed) selections were breathtaking.

The prices of the nigiri, served two per order, were more than reasonable considering the size. The tuna ($3.50), yellow tail ($3.50) and sea bass ($3.25) filets were all easily twice as large as the nigiri at any other sushi bar within a 500 mile radius.

The tuna was a deliciously cut, perfectly marbled, and immediately made us forget it had any relation to “chicken of the sea.” The yellow tail was soft, cakey, and fluttered on the palate, and the sea bass, the champion of the evening, was an enormous, buttery flank strip served with a dollop of hot sauce, a paper thin shaving of lime, a shiso leaf, and a tear-jerking dollop of wasabi.

The anago (sea eel; $3.25) nigiri and the unagi (fresh water eel; $5.00) maki roll both received high marks on taste and preparation, though the anago was widely favored by the table. Both eels were sweet and rich, with the unagi offering a slightly more oceanic taste than the anago. The chef’s adeptness with his cutlery was obvious, as the bone-cutting in the eel dishes was so well executed no evidence of skeletal remains remained.

The maki rolls were plump and dimpled abundantly with sesame seeds, though they were rather loosely rolled, causing the novice chop stick user in our party to manhandle the roll rather than risk a cannonball-esque splash from errant sushi diving into her ramekin of soy sauce.

The salmon tempura roll, accented with cod roe and cucumber, was a lightly fried bargain at $6.00. The spicy tuna roll ($5.50) was not nearly as spicy as one would expect, but it was the same regal cut as the nigiri and we were once again thankful that such a quality high-quality steak had been, out of respect for the fish itself, served a la tartare.

Questionable menu items included the uni - sea urchin roe ($5.50)- which was a day or two past its expiration date and the New Mexico roll ($4.25), which we mistakenly ordered hoping soft shell crab, not faux crab, would be partnered with the tempura green chili. When ordering uni, always find out when it arrived, even if it means sending your on a fact-finding mission.

The bill for three people was $58.00 and considering we left full, less than $20 per person for sushi is a steal.

Crazy Fish is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Along with sushi they also have ample offerings of noodles, salads, and for the squeamish or prepubescent, teriyaki beef and chicken.

Hours:
Lunch
Tuesday - Friday 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Dinner
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday 5:00 pm - 9:30 pm
Friday and Saturday 5:00 pm -10:00 pm

A slightly altered form of the above originally appeared in Crosswinds Weekly (www.crosswindsweekly.com), Nov. 23-30 issue.