FOOD FINDS: When chili meets chile - and the weather is chilly

Food is one of the few areas where cultural differences and ethnic clashes take a back seat to the desires of the epicureous tongue. And in a world rife with French-Asian bistros, tapas bars that borrow ingredients from Italy to the Middle East, and highbrow pizzerias with pies sporting salmon and cauliflower, culinary fusion is a trend with gastronomical possibilities. Food is the world’s truest melting pot. Even the Spanish, who effectively drove out the Moorish influence in 1492, never balked at using the ingredients the Moors and other Arab sailors had or would introduce into the Iberian peninsula. Saffron, rice, tomatoes and olives, among other fruits and vegetables, are all staples of the Spanish spread via the Arabs.

Texas chili and New Mexican chile, while homonyms, are as different as apples and sweet breads. Texas style chili is a hearty stew of beans, tomatoes, and meat, often partnered with a square of corn bread and a dollop of sour cream. It is the quintessential cattle hand fare, easy to assemble and easy to eat.

On the other hand, New Mexican chile is a sacred fruit of almost iconic proportions. It is either roasted in its verdant state or pulverized into a crimson powder. Whether reduced to sauces of infernal heat or stuffed with cotija cheese, battered and fried, chiles are the backbone of New Mexican cuisine.

Even without chili, Texas would still have barbecue ribs and brisket, mammoths sized steaks, and soul food to define its cuisine. But because chile is so crucial to New Mexican food, it’s natural to be apprehensive when confronted with New Mexican recipe for chili, not chile. But for the sake of food, let’s put aside the New Mexican-Texan rivalry for one meal.

And chili, despite its derivation point, is a robust stew perfect for the ever-decreasing temperatures of New Mexico’s wintery days. It’s much more than a topping for amalgamated ballpark franks or a open-faced burgers. Chili, when done right, can be a one course meal that warms you to the core. The marriage of a chili con chile will not only please the little diablo sitting on your shoulder, encouraging you to sear your tongue with another spicy meal, but will also please your empty stomach and give you enough energy to hit the slopes of Taos all day long or chop another cord of piñon.

New Mexican Red Chili
1 large white onion
4 stalks celery
2 cloves garlic
1 green bell pepper

Dice all vegetables and place in a large pot. Sauté vegetables in olive oil over medium-high heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Add a pinch of salt to draw the water out of the vegetables.

When vegetables are caramelized, add:

Dry:
1-4 tablespoons dried red chile (amount will vary depending on desired heat level)
4-5 dried, crushed ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed (Ancho chiles are dark, smoked poblanos with a sweet, slightly bitter flavor and a mild heat index. They are usually sold whole.)
2 bay leaves
Salt
Pepper

Wet:
1 small can tomato paste
1 16 ounce can diced tomatoes
8 ounces black coffee (or 3 shots espresso)
24 ounces Mexican beer (Corona and Tecate work well, however Negra Modelo is ideal for its deep notes and pairs well with coffee.)
8 ounces water

Bring to a rolling boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 30-45 minutes. At this point the tomatoes should have broken down to a sauce consistency and the ancho chile pods should have softened significantly.

Reduce heat to a simmer and add:

2 large chorizo sausages, cut into pieces (Roughly 1/2 pound. A raw, softer chorizo is ideal compared to a dense or dried chorizo. Chicken chorizo, available at most organic grocers, works exceptionally well and has a lower fat content.)
1/2 pound cubed red meat (Beef, pork, lamb or buffalo are all valid options.)
1 8 ounce can pinto beans and 1 8 ounce can kidney beans (drained and rinsed in a colander)

Simmer until meat is cooked thoroughly. Be careful not to overcook the meat as it will become tough.

Traditionally, corn bread is the accompanying starch with chili, however to deanglicize the cornbread, prepare normally but add to the batter:

1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 diced jalapeño's (seeds and veins removed)

Serve New Mexican Red Chili in bowls and garnish with cilantro, a lime wedge, sour cream and shredded sharp cheddar. Serves 6.

Eric Howerton has lived in New Mexico since 1993, minus two year spent traveling, writing, cooking and seraching for the ripest cheese available. He can be reached at erichowerton@mac.com

A slightly altered form of the above originally appeared in Crosswinds Weekly (www.crosswindsweekly.com) in the Nov. 9-16 issue.