FOOD FINDS: Chef du Jour Review

The Greek philosopher Heraclitus is most known for his declaration “Everything is in flux,” and given the transient nature of Chef du Jour’s menu, this maxim couldn’t be any more apropos of the Albuquerque eatery.

While Heraclitus never had the fortune of dining at Chef du Jour, he died around 475 B.C.E, Chef du Jour has been hailed for years as an Albuquerque gem. Markedly different form other local gorging grounds, the cafe operates with a truly independent spirit (read: no advertising whatsoever) and maintains its fan base despite the absence of sit-down dinner service. Weekly menu overhauls encourage the return of adventurous diners to sample Buddy Murzen and Ralph Garcia’s latest experiments.

Located in a dinky three-shop crop of brick and mortar at 119 San Pasquale SW, Chef du Jour has abutted Old Town for 19 years. Murzen, who worked as a server before taking over the business six years ago, describes his and Garcia’s establishment as a “special occasions place.” And given that lunch for two clocked in at just over $30, lunch at Chef du Jour is not your ordinary twelve o’clock hustle. But Murzen and Garcia aren’t interested in giving diners an “ordinary” experience. Instead, the ever-changing menu creates a halo of mystery much appreciated by the regulars.

Upon entering Chef du Jour, one feels an immediate ease. The dining room (and the men’s room too) are designed with a quaint homeyness that immediately gives the impression you’re dining at a friend’s home. The kitchen is unabashedly open. A refrigerator stands conspicuously in the dining area. A feeling of mirth, prompted by Murzen’s casual address and Chef Garcia’s omnipresence, sets the tone for an enjoyable experience. But can the food sustain this lofty precedent?

The first courses were met with mixed opinions. The spicy tomato soup ($3.75 cup/$4.75 bowl) was more reminiscent of a thin marinara than a zesty zupa. It was not at all unpleasant, but neither was it remotely spicy. The house tossed salad ($3.50) was more diversely cast than a John Waters’ film, and in attendance were baby spinach, frisee and red leaf lettuce to name a few. But the green chile vinaigrette drizzled over the field greens was too reminiscent of a standard Italian dressing, and whatever semblance of green chile existed was drowned out by parmesan cheese and olive oil. The dressing was flavorful, but as New Mexicans our tongues were expecting a mild sense of alarm. Whatever points were lost from the hesitance of heat in the soup and salad were quickly regained by the oven-warmed baguette and coarsely-ground garlic compound butter.

With fewer than eight entrees to choose from, one would assume selecting a main course would be a simple task. It was not. I was torn between the Thai green curry pasta with pork ($11) and the smoked salmon and spinach quiche ($8) while my partner-in-dine vacillated between the margarita shrimp quesadilla with tequila citrus glaze (served flat and crispy like a wood-oven pizza, $8.50) and the green corn tamale with basmati rice and mango salsa ($8.25). In the end we both opted for our respective latters.

The smoked salmon quiche arrived on a bed of the same mixed greens as before, only this time the dressing - herbed buttermilk heavily laden with fresh dill - was outstanding. The crust on the quiche was flaky and not excessively buttery, the boldness of the salmon was controlled so as not to overpower the spinach, and the moussey interior of the pie was not at all burdened with an errant density cheese.

The green corn tamale, called “green” simply because fresh corn is used instead of lime-dried masa, was a meeting of tropical flavors, and the mango salsa (mango, onions, red bell pepper and lime juice) was fresh and mildly acidic. The use of fresh sweet corn paired well with the tartness of the lime and the crispness of fresh onion, as did the fragrant bed of basmati rice.

For dessert we sampled the chocolate burrito, more or less a frozen cannoli filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with whipped cream, fresh bananas, walnuts, and caramel ($3.50), and the apple-raisin galette with almonds and caramel ($3.25). Both desserts were so rich and sugary I was sated after two bites of each. To mediate the premature onset of diabetes, desserts at Chef du Jour should be shared.

Our total bill was $30.25 before tax and tip, and had my dining companion not dropped the remainder of her tamale in the parking lot, she would have had a healthy doggy-bag dinner too.

Chef du Jour is open Tuesday through Friday, 11 am to 4 pm. Carryout dinners can be arranged in advance by calling 247-8998.

Eric Howerton can be reached at erichowerton@mac.com.